Do
Liam, atá ag claoi lena dhúchas. For Liam, who is
cleaving to his tradition. Do Liam, nach bhfuil eagla air níos
mó. For Liam, who is no longer afraid. These are the book
dedications that Nuala Ní Dhomhnaill writes for me after
a recent reading. I have been talking to her in Irish for the first
time, having spoken English at our previous encounters. I tell her
what my fears were - that I might not understand her, that I lacked
confidence in Irish. Shortly after, Nuala sends me an e-mail. Molaim
go mór an t-athrú teangan. Ná bíodh
aon lag-mhisneach ort, tá sé agat, fiú i ngán
fios díot féin. She is delighted that I have switched
languages, tells me not to lack courage; I have the language, even
if I don't know it myself.
Dhúchas.
This word is frequently translated into English as heritage. A word
that is full of death and stasis. But to an Irish speaker, it means
one's native place, a shared tradition, a collective soul, a kindred
affection, a natural affinity. Filleadh ar do dhúchas. To
return home, to where one belongs, to revert to kind. It is something
that is bidding me a prodigal's welcome after many years.
For
my father, Liam MacCarráin, Irish was a place of refuge.
He was once interviewed for Radio Ulster's Tearmann - where guests
were asked what gave them sanctuary in their lives. He chose the
Irish language itself. He hid within and took comfort from words.
The language itself was another world, something parallel - and
magical - to the mundane world.
In
his book Is Cuimhin Liom an t-Ám (I Remember the Time) he
described his awakening to the beauty of Irish.
Work
In
1930 - at the age of fourteen - he started work as a telegraph messenger
for the Royal Mail. There he met Ruairi Ó Maolchallan and
Padaí Ó hÉigeartaigh and found himself spellbound
listening to their Irish - faoi dhraíocht acu ag comhrá
le chéile i nGaeilge. Fired by his determination to master
the language as much as possible and as quickly as possible, he
attended two classes a week. He practised his Irish at socials in
An Cumann Gaelach, where he would meet migrant mill-workers, girls
from the Donegal gaeltacht. After two years, he went for the Fáinne
test, where he was examined by Domhnall Ó Grianna, brother
of famed Donegal writers Seamus Ó Grianna and Seosamh Mac Grianna.
His examination was short and sweet - Domhnall simply asked him
if he was Liam MacCarráin. 'Is mise', replied my father,
whereupon the Fáinne was pinned to his lapel. He was already
famous for his outstanding command of Irish.
My
family still has a copy of the January 1950 issue of An tUltach.
The magazine is in the old Gaelic script, and uses the old spellings.
On the front page, there is a photo of my mother with my sister
Caitlín and brother Ciaran, who's only a toddler. The Carsons
are family of the month. The article tells how Caitlín
has a few words of English that she learnt from children in
the street but she only speaks Irish at home. The author laments
the fact that Ciaran will have to learn English at school - but
proceeds to remark that while it may not be unusual to hear adults
in Belfast speaking Irish, it is wondrous to hear it in the mouths
of children. The author wonders if this land will ever change.
English is a cause for sadness in our lives. Here is
my family, in the days before I was born, urban pioneers urging
the rebirth of a language and a spirit.
1960s
I
grew up speaking Irish in 1960s Andersonstown. It was house Irish,
home Irish, an Irish of the heart. It was a language that felt warm.
At Holy Child Primary School, I was regarded as a curiosity, an
exotic eccentric nicknamed Fluent. The other boys would
poke and provoke me Go on then, Fluent, say something
in Irish. How do you say fuck? The only other family in Mooreland
that spoke Irish were the Bradys - the real thing, from the Donegal
gaeltacht. As a child, I played with Kevin Brady, who was later
gunned down by Michael Stone in Milltown Cemetary.
With
the arrival of the Troubles, the linguistic lie of the land changed
in my home. My mother spoke Irish less and less. Once it had meant
freedom for her. She would still talk about how the best days of
her life had been in Donegal, when the language meant clean air,
little cottages, hillside walks, simple pleasures. But, in her mind,
Irish was now linked to republicanism, to the IRA, to violence.
She was afraid, I think, that if we were to be heard speaking Irish,
we might be considered Provos. She would also remark that Irish
wasn't much use when it came to getting a job.
It
was as if a centuries-old shame of the language had come back to
visit us. It is not that long since the Catholic Church taught its
flock that Irish was the language that confuses men,
something that seems hard to believe when we recall how the Christian
Brothers relentlessly drilled us in Irish grammar. First the clerics
ripped an teanga - the tongue - from our mouths, and then, generations
later, and much too late, shoved it back down our throats.
Punk
By
1977, I was listening to the first punk bands. From a safe, stable,
suburb, Andersonstown had become a war-zone. Helicopters hovered
over our house all night; gun-battles would last into the dawn.
After six, the city centre was a place of desolation and dread.
The Clash, Stiff Little Fingers, The Buzzcocks and The Stranglers
were the soundtrack of my teenage years, their brittle, edgy songs
reflecting my violent urban reality.
My
Da was now in his sixties, seeking solace in the world of the Blasket
and Donegal writers - Tomás Ó Criomhthain, Séamas
Ó Grianna, and Micí MacGabhann - wonderful stuff that
I would only appreciate much later. Our cultures and worlds seemed
oceans apart. I was thinking in English, he was dreaming in Irish.
He saw the chasm growing between us. I was reading new wave science-fiction
- revolutionary, surreal, dark, dystopian, nihilistic fiction light-years
removed from my Da's beloved Jules Verne, H.G.Wells and Edgar Rice
Burroughs.
In
my youthful arrogance, I saw my father dreaming of a mythical Gaelic
land that could never be. He and his gaeilgeoir friends, I thought,
lived in a room just off the reality I knew. I imagined them sitting
in the corner of Cluain Ard in Hawthorne Street, recalling better
days in Rann na Feirste, talking about the language itself hour
after hour. Outside the city was on fire with hate. They were in
their sanctuary.
Discussion
One
day, the Da told me he needed to have an important discussion. He
knew it wasn't always easy for me to speak in Irish, and that I
was living in a new world very different from that of his youth.
If I wanted to use English, he would understand. 'Maith go leor',
I said. We continued to speak in Irish. I was afraid to break his
heart, to fail him, or to betray what he loved most.
Once
I went to college in Dublin, and then on to the squatland of 1980s
south London, I spoke Irish very rarely. Occasionally it would emerge
as a drunken party piece. At times I would cringe listening to myself,
speaking to people who hadn't a clue what I was saying.
At
Christmas, I would come home. My father's greeting was always the
same - first a bear hug, and then the question 'an bhfuil ocras
ort? Ar mhaith leat friochú?' Are you hungry? Do you want
a fry-up?
On
one of these visits, he told me that he had no idea what I did with
my life, but that he wanted me to know that there was always a home
for me to return to, where himself and my mother would respect my
privacy. There would always be food and a bed for me. A haven I
could come to if I was in trouble.
I
remember my first visit to the gaeltacht - to Mín a' Chladaigh
- at the age of eleven. Shy and alone, I wanted to go back to Belfast.
Cumhaidh is what gripped me - pining, loneliness, homesickness,
a soreness of the heart, longing. This Irish word contains in its
sound an ache that no English word can evoke for me.
Decades
later, in 2003, my girlfriend Niamh and I are in Donegal, where
she is touring her children's puppet show, Luichín na Cathrach
agus Luichín na Tuaithe - The Town Mouse and the Country
Mouse. I make an effort to speak Irish to the venue organizers,
and begin to feel comforted by its sounds and its rhythms. Part
of me feels that I am at home here. On our way towards Gaoth Dobhair
we discover a townland called Tearmann. In our bed and breakfast
at Dún Lúiche, the bean an tí asks if I have
a cúpla focal. 'Giota beag níos mó ná
sin', I reply. A wee bit more than that.
From
then on, she mostly speaks Irish to me. There is a willingness to
connect, and to make me feel at ease with what is undoubtedly my
inferior Irish.
Bookshop
We
travel to Gleann Cholm Cille, where we pay a visit to the Oideas
Gael bookshop. There I buy a couple of poetry collections by Cathal
Ó Searcaigh - and Sruth Teangacha/Stream of Tongues, by Gearóid
MacLochlainn. This book shatters my ignorant notions of what exists
within Irish literature. MacLochlainn writes about my home - west
Belfast. I recognize myself and my city in these poems. Here are
the binlids, the soldiers, the helicopters, the sirens, the half-bricks,
the plastic bullets and the Molotov cocktails. Here are people listening
to Linton Kwesi Johnson and smoking spliffs. Here are people swimming
between Irish and English. Ó Searcaigh combines a profound
knowledge and love of his Donegal tradition - the poets and storytellers
who came before him - with the sensibility of somebody who has read
Kerouac, Ginsberg, Lorca and Cavafy.
I
learn that some of the most engaged, modern, innovative, lively
and beautiful writing emerging from Ireland is in Irish. I become
like a thirsty man, drinking from a long-forgotten well. Caithfear
pilleadh arís ar na foinsí says Ó Searcaigh
- we will have to return to the springs.
Dead
My
father has been dead six years now. I am nearly the same age he
was when I was born. In photographs, I see the contours of my face
beginning to resemble his. But what survives most of him is his
voice, and the Irish language. When I dream of him, he is always
speaking in Irish. I am beginning to dream more often in Irish.
Sometimes when I am a little drunk, I'll open a book - recently,
the wonderfully strange and surreal fiction of Connemara author
Micheál Ó Conghaile - and read without the aid of
a dictionary. All these magical words I don't know or have forgotten.
But I trust to the flow, the context, the feel, the vibe of the
sentences. I sense the shimmer of their meaning. In the morning,
I check the words, and I am often right, or at least half-right.
There comes a point where one must stop translating constantly,
and begin to see and hear the words in their own territory, not
existing as an annex to English.
In
the human flood that is modern Dublin, where I now live, I begin
to seek out other Irish speakers, and am pleasantly surprised by
how many of us there are, or by how much people will use it if only
they are addressed in the language. I introduce snatches of Irish
in my work e-mails, and receive replies in Irish. The European Union
circus is in town, and the cold men and women who call the shots
drive by in cavalcades of limousines. Éamon Ó Cuív,
our minister for the Gaeltacht - the man entrusted to defend Irish
- will not ask these people for Official Status for the Irish language.
English is the language of power and commerce, and who are we to
argue with that? The old shame endures - even in the hearts of the
warriors of destiny.
But
language and friendship are viruses, and in these, I find hope.
The more people you meet who can speak the language, the more it
will become part of your life, and the more it will grow in your
soul. Is beatha teanga í ag labhairt - the life of a language
is in its speaking. In a hotel bar in Parnell Square, I chat with
new friends Gabriel and Eithne Rosenstock. Gabriel has just published
a lovely memoir of their travels in the East, Olann Mo Mhiúil
as an nGainséis. In his poetry, east meets west, barriers
are broken, bridges are built between cultures.
Ireland
no longer exists in isolation from the rest of the world. The streets
of Dublin are full of new sounds, new words - from Africa, from
eastern Europe, from China. Cathal Ó Searcaigh has suggested
that this flux of cultural multiplicity, of linguistic diversity;
of inevitable hybridity might well provide Irish with the
soil within which it can flourish. The purist ideal is gone, and
now there is a recognition that cultures need not exist in opposition.
In celebrating the difference of other cultures, we can find a way
to remind ourselves of our own difference, our own dúchas.
Will
Irish survive? My answer is an emphatic yes. It will not be the
language of the past, because we are not the people of the past.
It will survive because we are finally shaking off the shackles
of shame about our own identity. It will survive because a generation
ago, men and women like my father and mother gave their children
something that could not be erased. It will endure because there
must always be a return to one's own tearmann and to dúchas,
where something of one's soul and being is kept alive. It is a blessing
that - finally, and before it was too late - I have returned to
the linguistic sanctuary my father bequeathed me, for which I am
eternally grateful.
Spookaticci This
book has been long awaited. Since 1999 when allusions to a senior
British agent operating in the highest echelons of the IRA began
to filter into public discourse, unease mixed with fascination has
permeated the psyche of the republican constituency. Many believed
and some hoped that once Stakeknife was unmasked it would reveal
a high profile politician.
by Anthony McIntyre
Tongue
of my father Do
Liam, atá ag claoi lena dhúchas. For Liam, who is
cleaving to his tradition. Do Liam, nach bhfuil eagla air níos
mó. For Liam, who is no longer afraid. These are the book
dedications that Nuala Ní Dhomhnaill writes for me after
a recent reading. I have been talking to her in Irish for the first
time, having spoken English at our previous encounters.
by Liam Carson
Iraqs
Mercenary Armies Amongst all the bloodshed in Iraq, it is
hardly surprising that the death of one South African and the wounding
of five others in a bomb attack in Baghdad at the beginning of February
should have attracted little international attention. Yet the story
behind their presence in Iraq is an instructive one, with both chilling
and poignant dimensions. The dead man was Frans Strydom, a former
member of Koevoet, a notorious counter-insurgency unit that operated
in Namibia in the 1980s.
by Adrian Guelke
Lord
Falls - Diary of a slightly revolutionary constitutionalist Wednesday: Gday. One had a bonza time
in Oz. The people are lovely, so trusting, so rich. Sold a good few
books and had the chance to find out more about Ned Kelly. I have
no doubt that Ned was a proto-Provo who would support Sinn Féin had
he not been gunned down by the peelers. Have urged an inquiry into
Brit collusion in his demise. Must write a piece for AP/RN about this.
Mixer
S
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