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   January 2004   No. 421                                                                                                                                          Subscribe to Fortnight

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Our precious stake in a fragile world

Ireland, A Smithsonian Natural History
By Michael Viney
Blackstaff Press
ISBN 0 85640 744 5
336pp £20.00 hb

Paul Clements

In recent years there has been a glut of natural history books about Ireland. There appears to be an endless fascination amongst publishers for studies of the natural world and its geological past. In 1999 Harper Collins brought out David Cabot’s comprehensive book Ireland, A Natural History in the New Naturalist series. Two years previously Lilliput Press published Nature in Ireland: A Scientific and Cultural History, an anthology edited by John Wilson Foster. Numerous other books in the past ten years have delved into every aspect of wildlife and the landscape from the Wexford slobs to the Shannon floodlands, and from Strangford Lough to Cape Clear Island.

Just when you thought the market was as saturated as a Connemara bog in winter, along comes an ambitious new offering from the Blackstaff Press in association with the distinguished Smithsonian Institution in Washington. Ireland, A Smithsonian Natural History, by the columnist and natural history writer Michael Viney, is the newest addition to this ever-expanding mountain of books. As someone who has lived for the past twenty-five years on a windswept and remote Mayo hillside chronicling the rhythms of nature, Viney knows the terrain intimately.

Since 1977 he has contributed a weekly column to the Irish Times, ‘Another Life’ (memorably labelled “marvellous communiques from the west” by Michael Longley). In his column he looks at different aspects of natural history, often considering environmental, conservation and ecological issues. His adjoining ‘Eye on Nature’ answers queries from readers on subjects as diverse as why caterpillars have black blotches, the feeding habits of woodlice, or the reasons why ravens flock in large numbers in the autumn.

The opening chapter of his book explains the flourishing of interest in natural history in the Victorian era with the field clubs booming through the 1880s and 1890s. The gentlemen and women botanists from Belfast and Dublin loved regular excursions in search of butterflies, ferns and sea-shells. Viney writes of the significance of the Clare Island Survey of 1909-1911 in analysing change in an ocean environment; an analysis, he notes, now becoming crucial in monitoring the unpredictable progress of global warming. He then transports us on a journey back in time with a series of biological and geological history lessons. He discusses possible land bridges between Ireland and Britain, and looks at climate change and the way the weather has a place in the human shaping of the island. Other chapters sweep across archaeology, agriculture and aquaculture, land ownership, the seashore, islands, estuaries, and the woodland heritage.

Trodden

Much of the ground covered is already well trodden by previous writers but one of Viney’s strengths lies in his detailed knowledge of the country and in juxtaposing the views of other writers on nature and science. Hardly a page goes by without a citation or telling quotation from some of the illustrious names of the Irish natural history and topographical writing dynasty: Robert Lloyd Praeger, Henry Chichester Hart, Frank Mitchell, David Webb and Estyn Evans - as well as present day practitioners of the craft - including Tim Robinson, David Cabot and Charles Nelson. All are to be found within the covers of this book. The author weaves in appropriate comments covering archaeology, topography, geology and ornithology, and concludes each chapter with a valuable reading list.

Viney’s own vade-mecum is unquestionably Praeger’s classic work on Ireland The Way That I Went. Written in 1937, it is the story of a lifetime spent exploring the mountains, bogs, caves, lakes, rivers and islands of the country. Praeger was primarily a botanist but he was also an archaeologist and geologist and had an avid curiosity about the countryside. His holistic and ecological view of nature appeals to Viney and he invokes his literary work more than any other writer.
The text is replete with anecdotes and intriguing observations. Snippets of information pour from Viney’s pen. We hear, for example, of Maude Jane Delap from Valencia Island who was the seventh of ten children of a Church of Ireland rector. She became a marine biologist rearing generations of jellyfish in bubbling bell jars in the rectory. She made genuine discoveries and a sea anemone (Edwardsia delapiae) was named after her. He tells us of a formidable body of women in the First World War, the Society of United Irishwomen, which formed units to collect sphagnum for wound dressings as it was more absorbent and effective than cotton wool.

Inventory

In the chapter entitled, ‘The Brown Mantle’ he supplies a fascinating descriptive inventory of the animals of peatland. As well as bird life, his list includes frogs, beetles, mites, aquatic spiders, dragonflies and damselflies, moths, butterflies, marsh grasshoppers, viviparous lizards, the smooth newt - and biting midges - with the reassurance that ‘of Ireland’s thirty biting midges, only four are a torment to people.’

Not surprisingly, the author is particularly strong on his home patch of Mayo. The fields, beaches, mountains, and undoubtedly midges, he knows best are those on his doorstep where he has made rich discoveries over the years. But one of the best chapters is on the Burren in County Clare, a region south of Viney’s territory.

Burren

‘The Magic of Limestone Country’ delves into the mystery and ecological conundrum that is the Burren. Whether searching out turloughs (vanishing lakes) or exploring the area’s unique cave system he is always aware of his surroundings. He is an amiable companion as he quarters the limestone pavement of this botanical holy ground and guides us knowledgeably through the “floral excitement” where he describes the annual orchid parade as a “spectacular celebration of chance”. Viney doesn’t romanticise Ireland and his passion is often neatly understated:

“Limestone is a rock of considerable character, transformed by the fall of light or the flow of water. Whether as the matrix of ancient fossils, the armature of mystical hills, or the cradle of dazzling wildflowers, it makes memorable landscapes of the Burren and the Aran Islands.”

He writes in a style largely free of opinion and any personal likes or dislikes. His methodology is straightforward and the information is presented in an accessible and engaging style with the Latin nomenclature accompanying the English names for plants and animals. Occasionally he lapses into the technical lingua franca which has the reader reaching for the dictionary to find the meaning of words such as xerophilous, mycorrhizal, chitinous or tyrphobionts; he does though helpfully explain the difference between epizoochory (seed transport by adhesion to people or animals) and endozoochory (seedlings germinated from a cow pat).

This book is best savoured slowly and dipped into at a leisurely pace - otherwise the casual reader may become overwhelmed. It is a fact-driven cornucopia with a staggering amount of data and detail. Some remarkable facts and figures are produced and delivered with exactitude. Consider a few plucked out as randomly as the plummeting 130 foot dive for fish by a gannet (of which there are 26,580 pairs on Little Skellig): the coast of south Connemara has 336 recorded species of seaweed, a dozen more than the US North Atlantic coast; there are seventy-three kinds of sea slug in Lough Hyne near Skibbereen; the royal fern - the tallest fern in Ireland - rarely grows above 164 feet, except in the Macgillicuddy’s Reeks where it climbs to 984 feet.

Birdlife

When it comes to describing bird life, Viney has a sharp eye and ear for detail: “The sweeping aerial ballets of great flocks of lapwing and golden plover are among the most affecting pleasures of Ireland’s winter birding”, he writes.

“To stand at the edge of the [Shannon] callows at twilight in early summer is to hear the strange aerial “drumming” of displaying snipe from many points in the sky”.

Or: “The bugling calls of the Greenland white-fronted geese are among the most stirring of Ireland’s wild sounds.”
With a controlled and restrained pen, he takes the ecologist’s view quietly expressing his concerns. The development of dune systems as golf courses, chiefly for promoting Irish tourism, is in his opinion “unremitting”. By the end of the twentieth century there were fewer than ten intact dune systems remaining of the 190 originally existing along the island’s 466 miles of sandy coast.

But there is humour in his writing too. The small things in nature excite Viney. Seeing two rare violet-blue sea-snails on the beach beside his home at Thallabawn “at once made up for never winning the lottery.” The illustrations are particularly well chosen and evocative. Atmospheric black and white photographs, featuring storm washed islands of the west coast and fishermen’s currachs on Caher Island, all help capture the mood. A glossy sixteen-page colour photographic inset will leave you drooling and grabbing your binoculars.

Ireland, A Smithsonsian Natural History is a work of scholarship, but it is an unsettling book: unsettling because after reading it, a restlessness is guaranteed to come over you and you will want to follow in the author’s footsteps and drive straight to the Burren to seek out the mountain avens, spring gentians, or early purple orchids. Alternatively, you may hear the call of the Skellig islands, decide to visit the Shannon callows, climb Mweelrea mountain, or want to walk the CÈide Fields in Viney’s beloved and adopted County of Mayo.

Scrupulously edited and proof-read, this book is an authoritative celebration of outdoors Ireland. Michael Viney is a well-informed connoisseur of nature, living, in his own closing words, a life of “almost eccentric privilege”. For a quarter of a century - week in, week out - he has kept a gimlet eye on wildlife and has eloquently entertained, enlightened and educated his readers. His vast wealth of knowledge has now been translated into an all-encompassing work that carries on in the Praeger tradition of passionate inquiry into everything in the landscape as well as twenty-first century ecological issues. As Viney points out, we are all stakeholders in the countryside. This stimulating volume will raise awareness of our precious stake in the fragile natural world around us and make us think a little more about the changes taking place.




 

P r e v i e w
Issue 420

Oh Mercy! Is this the future?
I read somewhere recently that Irish language publishers rarely exceed 600 copies of any print run when launching a new book. Of these, some 400 are sold, which perhaps illustrates the true state of the language more than all the propaganda that was ever produced by its exploiters.
by Sean Kearney

Confessions of a Relapsed Catholic
God, or my imagination of God (I`m still not sure which), started to play a major, if ultimately inconsequential role in my life in the months after Ollie died. After cursing Him as a bastard I asked Him for forgiveness and made the transformation from lapsed to relapsed Catholic.
by Simon Delaney

The Place Where the Islands Meet
I hold an Irish passport, but do not speak Irish nor have I voted in an Irish election since the late1980s when I moved to London. My family name ‘Barry’ originally comes from Wales. I speak English and have lived and worked in the United Kingdom for most of my adult life, voted in United Kingdom elections, but do not hold a British passport I studied and lived in Scotland for three years, and it was in Glasgow that I first got involved in Green Politics. I now live and work here in Northern Ireland where I feel more at home than my native Dublin where I was born. Politically I am a Green, yet despite my accent and pride in being Irish, I am not an Irish Nationalist.
by John Barry



Our precious stake in a fragile world
In recent years there has been a glut of natural history books about Ireland. There appears to be an endless fascination amongst publishers for studies of the natural world and its geological past.
by Paul Clements

 

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